Summer Splash: Vinho Verde

Vinho Verde is a Portuguese wine from the Minho region in the far north of the country. The name literally means "Green Wine" (red, white or rose), referring to its youthful freshness rather than its color. The "Vinho Verde Region" was demarcated by the law of September 18, 1908 and a decree of October 1 of the same year. The regulations controlling production were largely set in 1929, with recognition as a Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) in 1984. The DOC is overseen by the Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes ("Wine Commission of the Vinho Verde Region").

There are currently nearly 35,000 hectares of Vinho verde vineyards, making up 15% of the total in Portugal. There are 30,599 producers, down from 72,590 in 1981.

The Vinhos Verdes are light and fresh, and are intended to be drunk within a year. At less than one bar of CO2 pressure, they do not quite qualify as semi-sparkling wines but do have a definite pétillance. The white Vinho Verde is very fresh, due its natural acidity, with fruity and floral aromas that depend on the grape variety. The white wines are lemon- or straw-coloured, around 8.5 to 11% alcohol, and are made from local grape varieties Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura, Avesso and Azal. Vinho Alvarinho is made from Alvarinho grapes, from a small designated sub-region of Monção. It has more alcohol (11.5 to 14%) and ripe tropical aromas. The reds are deep red and tannic, and are mostly made from Vinhão, Borraçal and Amaral grapes. The rosés are very fresh and fruity, usually made from Espadeiro and Padeiro grapes.

CICONIA Vinho Verde 2010
Cool and refreshing Vinho Verde is the summer’s hot wine. With only 10% alcohol, it’s a perfect quaffer for a warm day. The bouquet is a lively mix of citrus & floral aromas. Soft flavors of apricot and grapefruit are perked up by the sparkling bubbles and balanced by delightful crisp acidity and strong minerality.

CASAL GARCIA Vinho Verde Rosé 2010
Casal Garcia is one of Aveleda’s most significant brands. It is the second oldest wine brand in Portugal and remains one of the greatest ambassadors of Portuguese wines all over the world. Produced from Azal Tinto, Barraçal, and Vinhao grapes. Like white wines from Vinho Verde, this is slightly effervescent, fresh, invigorating stuff. Just a hint of residual sugar balances out the red fruit, acidity, and fizz. Chill this one and drink it in warm weather for a real treat.

Bargain-Buying Strategies

With gas prices still hovering around the $4 mark, more and more customers have been asking me how to find better value in their wine selections. I thought that I
would take this opportunity to discuss some tips on finding those wines that over-deliver for their price.

Take the road less travelled, don't rely on familiar brands.
Many popular labels aren't so successful with lower-priced brand extensions. Name recognition may pay off when buying in the $30-$40 range, but I find it to be less reliable in bargain aisles.

Many smaller family owned wineries are a great place to look for value. You may not have heard of them because they don’t spend money on advertising. They tend to all believe that it is what is in the bottle that matters.

It is difficult to make everything excellent. Look for producers who specialize in a particular variety or blend of wine.

Embrace obscurity.
In much of the world, everyday wines are made with native grapes, from Gruner Veltliner to Bonarda, which require little manipulation. Invest in a solid guide to varieties (Jancis Robinson's book "How to Taste" covers it well) and practice your pronunciation.

Sometimes you don’t even have to choose an obscure grape to make a great find - just something a little atypical. The Zantho Muscat 2005 is a wonderful example of this. Most people will read see the varietal Muscat and assume that this is a sweet wine. Not so. This wine drinks more like a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre and has quite a tang to the finish.

Another trail off the beaten path is the type of wines known as “field blends.” These types of wines are very common in European countries, while relatively new here in the United States.

Change is constant.
Occasionally we have wines marked “Special Buy”. These wines are one-time-only offers, buyouts from wholesalers, stock that needs to be cleared and so on. Wait too long and they'll vanish. Given these shifting sands, don't dally when you find a winner. Buy more soon.

Think far afield.
The lack of California wines in the mix isn't just sommelier stubbornness. With a few exceptions (and not just the ubiquitous Mr. Charles Shaw and his “Two Buck Chuck”) the economics of making wine here rarely favor the under-$10 category. If you really want homegrown wines, remember such domestic labels as Delicato. Or mix it up: An $8 import, from Spain or South America,and a $12 domestic bottle still yield an average of 10 bucks.

Bigger can be better.
Packaging is a major cost factor for bargain wines, and you can save big by purchasing more in one package. Many bag-in-boxes cut the per-bottle cost down below $6, with the equivalent of 4 bottles in each box.