A Tale of Two Barberas

Barbera d’Asti is one of the more renowned areas for its Barbera wines in northwestern Italy's Piedmont region. It is located in the hilly areas around of the provinces of Asti and Alessandria and was upgraded to its DOCG classification in 2008. The vineyards are grown on hilly terrain covering a large area adjoining Barbera d’Alba to the northeast centered on the province of Asti.

According to regulations this wine must consist of at least 85% Barbera and the remaining 15% can comprise of Freisa, Grignolino and/or Dolcetto. The wine must not be released until March 1st of year following harvest and must be at least 11.5%. There is also a Superiore designation which requires a minimum of twelve months ageing with at least six in wood. This is a particularly ageworthy wine with the potential to age up to eight years.

When young, the wines offer a very intense aroma of fresh red and blackberries. In the lightest versions notes of cherries, raspberries and blueberries and with notes of blackberry and black cherries in wines made of more ripe grapes. Many producers employ the use of toasted (seared over a fire) oak barrels, which provides for increased complexity, aging potential, and hints of vanilla notes.

The Rivetti History

The Rivetti family story begins in the 1890s, when Giovanni Rivetti, grandfather of the three Rivetti brothers, Carlo, Bruno and Giorgio, left Piedmont for Argentina. Like many Italians of that time, he dreamed of returning rich and a powerful man, perhaps even one day able to make a great wine in his homeland.

He never did, though his son, Giuseppe (nicknamed Pin) did. Pin married Lidia, bought vineyards and began to make wine. In 1977 the family took up residence at LA SPINETTA (top of the hill) in Castagnole Lanze. It was the heart of the Moscato d’Asti country, home of a rather light and simple dessert wine. But the Rivettis believed that Moscato had the potential for greatness and set out to prove it by making Moscato Bricco Quaglia and Biancospino.

Eventually though the family’s vision became even grander. In 1985 LA SPINETTA made its first red wine, Barbera Cà di Pian. After this many great reds followed: In 1989 the Rivettis dedicated their red blend Pin to their father. In 1995 they started to make their first Barbaresco, Gallina. In 1996 and 1997 the Barbarescos Starderi, Barbera d'Alba Gallina and Barbaresco Valeirano follow. In 1998 premiered the Barbera d'Asti Superiore.

In 2000 the family’s ambition of also making a Barolo became reality. The Rivettis acquired vineyards in Grinzane Cavour and built a state of the art cellar, Barolo Campè. Since 2003 visitors are welcomed to visit also Campè, outside the town of Grinzane Cavour.

In 2001 LA SPINETTA expanded over the borders of Piedmont and acquired 65 hectares of vineyards in Tuscany, between Pisa and Volterra, to make three different 100% Sangiovese wines, as Sangiovese to La Spinetta is the true ambassador of the Tuscan terrain.

LA SPINETTA ‘Cá Di Pian’ Barbera d’Asti 2008, Piedmont  $28.99

Rivetti's La Spinetta Barbera d'Asti Ca di Pian was awarded a bronze medal by Decanter Magazine. The depth of color of the Ca di Pian, ruby tinged with royal purple hues, just hints at the amazing complexity of this barbera. Dense, with aromas reminiscent of Marasca cherries, violets and plum, it is fresh and full of fruit on the palate. The lively acidity is balanced by generous alcohol and mild tannins.

Pico Maccario

Pico Maccario, a dedicated Barbera specialist, is found on the hills of Mombaruzzo in the Asti DOCG at an average altitude of 180 meters. Comprising one single, contiguous parcel, their vineyard covers 70 hectares and is the largest solely-owned vineyard in Piedmont. Within the 70 hectares, there are some 315,000 vines capped at the end of each row by one of the approximately 4,500 red rose bushes on the property. It is no surprise that the rose is part of the winery’s emblem. Out of the 70 hectares, 55 are planted to Barbera.

The estate boasts state-of-the-art equipment, including stainless-steel tanks that have computerized controls for monitoring temperature and all stages of fermentation. The soils of Mombaruzzo are primarily clay, which impart full body and a silky texture to the wines. Both wines are aged exclusively in stainless-steel tanks to preserve the freshest fruit flavors. The name of the entry-level Barbera, Berró, means “I will drink,” and refers to the wine’s easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing purity.

MACCARIO 'Berro' Barbera d’Asti 2009,
Piedmont  $11.99

A delicate ruby hue with hints of purple introduces succulent notes of fresh cherry, strawberry and plum that finish fresh and sweet on the palate. With a medium body and little to no tannins, this easy-drinking Barbera offers primary fruit flavors that can be experienced on their own or that will pair easily with pizza, pastas, and chicken dishes.